As a direct result of demand we have put together a number of simple kits designed to improve your Triumph or early TVR sports car. Don't forget everything I sell on this page I have personally tested on my own cars and raced with.
It is assumed you have a reasonable degree of mechanical understanding and competence. All kits are supplied with fitting instructions and if you are in any doubt about fitting any of these components yourself, you should refer to a qualified mechanic for assistance. Alternatively please ask if you would prefer for us to fit them for you. Small Triumph = Spitfire GT6 Herald and Vitesse (includes Small Triumph based production cars and kits).
Please note: Because of change in my VAT status, I can no longer deduct VAT for non-UK sales, sorry.
For used spares click here (or email me because I do have lots of stuff!)
Email or phone on 07734 360963 or 01462 713690
For which car?
|Nylon suspension bushes||Spitfire GT6 Herald Vitesse Grantura Vixen M Series|
|Competition wheel stud and nut kit - stronger and longer||TR7, TR8 and small Triumph with some modification|
|Front suspension bolts||Small Triumphs|
|Adjustable radius arm||Spitfire GT6 Herald Vitesse|
|Anti roll bar drop links||Small Triumphs|
|Adjustable rear vertical link kit||Small Triumphs|
|TR7 TR7V8 and TR8 front subframe spacer kit||TR7, TR7V8 and TR8|
|Long-bolt front suspension mounts||Small Triumphs|
|4-link rear suspension arms for Triumph TR7 and TR8||TR7, TR7V8 and TR8|
|Rear disc brake disc conversion||TVR M Series Triumph TR5 TR6|
Triumph Spitfire GT6 Herald Vitesse
TVR Grantura Griffith Vixen M Series and possibly others
The problem Have you ever noticed that poly bushes for these cars are supposed to be a huge improvement over the standard metalastic bushes? Well I'm afraid it's mostly nonsense; most of the poly bushes on the market are actually softer than the standard metalastic bushes they are designed to replace.
You may be happy with this as they do look nicer...however if you want predictable suspension movement for your race or track day mount then you may well want to do something about it.
The solution use nylon bushes. These are direct replacements for the soft poly bushes you bought and they use the same steel tube that runs inside the ones you already have. If you don't have any steel tubes, I can sort them out for you too. I wouldn't really recommend these for sustained road use because they will transmit much more harshness and vibration to the car but that's a choice you can make.
Basically there are two sizes Large and Small! The small ones are designed for Small Triumph cars and also fit early TVR cars; they are the type that have a 3/8 inch bolt. The Large ones are for a 1/2 inch bolt. For example the TVR Grantura has 4 small bushes and 2 large bushes on each side in the rear suspension; the Triumph Spitfire / Herald / GT6 has 4 small ones on each side in the front suspension.
They are all over the place on an M-Series TVR. Each bush is a pair of top-hats. They are reasonably easy to fit but you will need a vice, press or could possibly be done with a large G cramp but they are designed to be a tight fit in the suspension arm.
Showing 2 large nylon bushes and 4 small bushes
Nylon suspension bushes: £15 each bush...which
is made up of a pair top-hats (can use of
your own poly bush tube)
Bush tubes £5 each
The bushes come with full fitting instructions or alternatively they can be fitted in our Bedfordshire workshop
Triumph TR7, TR8 - these are longer than standard fitment and have taper
Triumph Spitfire, GT6, Herald, Vitesse and small Triumph chassis based kit cars - longer and stronger.
The problem (1) It is very common to see broken wheel studs on Spitfires and GT6s - the cars came from the factory on rather small 3/8 inch UNF studs and over the years many have become fatigued and they can break (see below). (2) Alloy wheels often require longer wheel studs.
Typical sheared Spitfire wheel stud on a road car
The solution The kit consists of 16 x M12 thread wheel studs and chromed, open backed nuts. They are a straight replacement on all the cars listed and as well as being longer, are far stronger than those originally fitted on small Triumphs. Highly recommended for any form of competition use. Longer studs also allow the use of spacers behind the wheel or alloy wheels, where the wheel is often much thicker than on the steel wheel it is replacing.
Top is a standard Spitfire wheel stud and open backed nut; bottom are those supplied in the kit.
The kit consists of 16 new studs and 16 new chrome plated, open-backed nuts
(dome nuts are available to order at the same price)
Beware: Wheel trims may not fit if this kit is used, however most forms of competition forbid the use of nave plates, hub caps, trim rings etc. I don't like dome nuts as they can bottom out on the stud giving a false torque reading (if this happens the studs would need to be trimmed to suit). Also scrutineers don't like dome nuts as they cannot see how much thread is entering the nut. Front hubs will have to be separated from the brake disc and rear hubs pulled from the shaft to fit this kit.
In order to fit these to a small Triumph you may need to grind a chamfer on the retaining head, to ensure the stud clears the brake disk (front) and shoes (rear). This can be done for you by any engineering company local to you, however I have fitted loads of these as-is without any problem whatsoever.
Triumph Spitfire, GT6, Herald, Vitesse and small Triumph chassis based kit cars
The problem The standard bolt is not long enough, so the thread is used as a bearing surface which can lead to appalling and dangerous wear on the bolt. (see pictures)
Standard bolt (unbelievable that this was acceptable to Triumph)
Typical bolt wear - this came from a car which had passed an MOT!
Wolfitt spec bolt with the shank passing through the entire mounting bracket.
Each bolt is supplied with a new nyloc nut and washers to ensure that the bolt does not stall
on the shank. Bolts can be trimmed to length if required.
The solution Bolts which are the correct length!
These bolts can also be used on the rear radius arms on non-rotoflex small Triumphs but more washers may be required, as the mounting bracket on the body and front of the vertical link is typically slightly narrower than those on the front suspension.
Triumph Spitfire, GT6, Herald and Vitesse
The problem The standard tubular radius arm has a rubber bush each end and, in the case of the Spitfire, is not adjustable in length other than by adding or removing shims behind the body mount.
The solution This kit provides a pair of adjustable radius arms allowing fine adjustment of the length of the arm which is essential for accurate setup of suspension. The compliance offered by the rubber bushes is replaced by the control of rod-end bearings. Each arm is fitted with a left hand and right hand rod end, so the length can be adjusted in-situ by slackening the lock nuts and twisting the bar.
Standard Spitfire radius arm with adjustable unit shown below
The Spitfire arms use high strength, three piece 3/8" x 3/8" rod-ends and are constructed such that with the rod-ends set to their mid position, the fitted length of the arm is the same as the standard rubber-bushed item.
The GT6 Roto-flex arms use high strength, three piece 7/16" x 7/16" rod-ends and are constructed such that with the rod-ends set to their mid position, the fitted length of the arm is the same as would be required on a GT6 to set roughly parallel rear wheels.
Alternatively the radius arms can be supplied as a weld-it-yourself kit
Available as a weld-it-yourself kit if you prefer - just state how long you want the tube to be
(can work out cheaper as you just buy the parts you want)
Bespoke length items can be made to order, such as for Herald, Vitesse, kit cars or for use as Panhard or Watts linkage rods. Rods/arms using 1/2" x 1/2" rod-end bearings are also available. Metric also available as special order.
Triumph Spitfire GT6 Herald Vitesse and small Triumph chassis based kit cars TVR Grantura Vixen M Series
The problem The anti-roll bar drop links on a small Triumph are fixed length which makes it impossible to set the anti roll bar correctly (unless you are unbelievably lucky) and one end has a simple rubber bush which is just about OK for the road but not suitable for performance driving / racing and the other end has a weird ball-in-rubber joint which usually falls to bits!
The solution This simple kit gives you the parts you need to adapt your current set up to use a pair of rod end bearings each side. The kit includes four rod end bearings and all the nuts, washers and spacers needed to fit them. It requires the use of your existing studs in the end of the anti-roll bar or alternatively longer type inlet/exhaust manifold studs.
Showing one side only - the kit has all the parts for both sides
Anti roll bar drop link kit: £52
(spares parts are available individually)
Note: These rod-ends are extremely strong, however please do not use these rod ends on other suspension applications - they are designed for use on applications such as anti-roll bar links and gear linkages.
Anti-roll bar drop links are always in stock - £52 per set plus delivery (after nearly 10 years the price had to go up, sorry!)
|Buy 1 set with UK/BFPO delivery (£56)|
|Buy 1 set with Europe delivery (£58)|
|Buy 1 set with USA, Australia or New Zealand delivery (£61)|
Triumph Spitfire, GT6, Herald, Vitesse and small Triumph chassis based
kit cars fitted with swing axles (including the later swing spring cars)
(Not suitable for roto-flex cars)
The problem Setting the rear wheel camber on a swing axle car (whether swing spring or fixed spring) can be a tricky affair. To get the best from your tyres you need to set the amount of camber fairly accurately and the standard setup has no method of adjustment. Several methods are already available, typically by using a de-arched spring, a spacer between the diff casing and spring or by using shortened rear vertical links, however these do not give you the ability to make fine adjustments.
Adjustable rear vertical link kit once welded in place
The solution Rather than simply shortening the rear link, this weld-in kit allows you to modify your existing rear vertical links to make them length adjustable. You'll simply need to trim the tops off each existing vertical link and slot them to receive threaded inserts (two inserts per vertical link). The inserts are carefully positioned using the spring as a guide and welded into place. The exact position you choose is up to you, but the instruction sheet provided gives some suggestions and explains how to calculate geometry changes. Once the kit is fitted you'll have about 15mm of length adjustment.
It goes without saying that the welding should be of a good quality and undertaken by a suitably good operator.
Adjustable rear vertical link kit: £90
4 long threaded inserts, 4 high ultra high performance rod-end bearings with locknuts
2 'long' top bolts with nyloc nuts
(spares parts are available individually)
Triumph TR7 and TR8
The problem: When fitting a Rover V8 engine to a TR7 the upper part of the engine (normally the carburettors or air filter) can foul the bonnet. Remember that in a TR7V8 / TR8 the engine is mounted on the subframe not the body of the car.
The solution This kit lowers the subframe by 12mm giving that all-important extra clearance space. The knock-on effect is that it also lowers the car's centre of gravity (COG) which is good for handling.
Triumph TR8 TR7V8 subframe spacer kit - 25mm kit shown
For racing it's possible (and not uncommon) to space further - up to 30mm is possible without having to alter the length of the lower steering column. More than 30mm and you may have to increase the length of the steering column which involves getting a proper welding job done. You will need to ensure that you do not introduce bump-steer or more likely, foul the top of the inboard end of the lower suspension link on the subframe.
The off-the-shelf kit spaces the subframe by 12mm, if you want to go further then please contact us so we can understand your requirements and make up spacers as required and ensure we supply suitable length bolts which you can trim to length as and if required. Stacking multiple spacers is generally not a good idea unless they are pinned together, because shear forces can make the stack slide like when you push the top of a deck of cards.
Triumph Spitfire, GT6, Herald, Vitesse and small Triumph chassis based kit cars
The problem If you want to increase the amount of negative camber on the front of the car by using more shims it does not take many before you run out of thread on the mounting bolt - I have seen more than a few cars where the front suspension is held on with only 2 or 3 thread turns.
The solution These long bolt mounts are modified with an over-length bolt allowing for plenty more adjustment.
Showing refurbished, extended bolt length Spitfire / Herald / Vitesse / GT6 front suspension mount next to a standard one from a well used road car
Full set of extended bolt Spitfire / Herald / Vitesse / GT6 front suspension mounts
Designed for 5-speed cars rather than the very early 4-speed cars
The problem The standard TR7/TR8 has very heavy, non-adjustable rear radius arms and tie bars fitted with very compliant rubber metalastic bushes.
The solution These rod-end suspension arms replace the standard radius arms and give much better axle location and they can be adjusted in length too. Each rod is fitted with a pair of very high strength 1/2" x 1/2" rod end bearings (one l/h and one r/h) they are ideal for competition cars where axle setup accuracy and control is important. These tubes are made such that at their shortest length they are the same centre-to-centre length as the standard arms and each one is supplied with the necessary bolts, washers and side spacers. Other lengths available to order.
Note To use these arms your car MUST be fitted with coil-over-shock rear suspension and should have the location points on the car's body shell should be reinforced. The existing body mounting holes will have to be enlarged from 7/16" to 1/2".
Available as a weld-it-yourself kit if you prefer - or just state
how long you want the tubes to be
The problem Long brake pedal caused by drum brakes and also less effective drums especially when hot such as spirited driving, track days or racing. Takes readily available road or race-spec pads.
The solution We have developed a cost effective rear disc conversion - developed for a TVR M Series rear upright.
TVR M-Series rear disc brake conversion (left side shown)
The kit includes: 2 x steel, laser-cut brake caliper mounting plates; 2 x brake calipers; 2 x caliper carriers; 2 x high quality solid brake discs, 4 x high pressure caliper mount bolts; 4 x disc retainer screws, 1 x set branded brake pads (e.g. Mintex, Ferodo etc) plus full, detailed fitting instructions.
Braided race-spec brake hoses to suit the above, based on a 33cm hose with 20 degree, M10 metric banjo at the caliper and imperial 3/8 UNF bulkhead fitting on the chassis are £24 each.
For the full kit : UK Delivery £20 Europe Delivery £40
If you just want the laser-cut caliper mounts
TVR M-Series TR5 TR6 rear brake caliper conversion mount brackets
£70 a pair plus delivery
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